Orthodox Easter Celebrations!

Easter decorations in Skopje

I already discussed Rome but I can't forget to mention the Macedonian Easter. I will tell you the highlights because their traditions are so interesting!! One thing that surprised me is that I asked many of the Macedonians why they do certain traditions and many didn’t know. They were simply continuing to pass down the traditions from their families. Oh and before I forget, the Orthodox Easter is a week after the Catholic Easter. 

There was much anticipation about this holiday and it was all anyone seemed to talk about. On Thursday morning, before the sunrise, the Macedonians wake up early to boil and dye red eggs to symbolize the blood of Jesus. The first 3 eggs that are dyed are the most important. The first egg is for Jesus Christ and needs to be brought to the church on Saturday night, the second egg is for the home (they keep this egg all year long in their house and then burry the old when after boiling the new one) and the last egg is for good health. Apparently the rumor is that you dye the eggs before sunrise because Mary wept for the death of Jesus after sunrise.

The 1st three eggs that were dyed 

Later that evening, my host mom and I dyed the other eggs different colors and I taught her how to mix the egg dyes to create really cool colors. She also put oil on the eggs to make them look shiny. Then you shower with the red egg that was set aside for good health! Yes that's right, it comes in the shower with you! You are supposed to rub it over your body and it will bring you good health for the next year.

The finished eggs!

Friday is the day of going to church. There is an alter type table set up in the middle of the church. People put flowers and money on top of the table. When you walk under the table, you are supposed to make a wish. There was also a cross near the table and people put towels and socks on the cross as an offering.

The table/alter 

Saturday, before midnight, people go to the church and buy candles. They circle around the church 3 times to celebrate Jesus’ resurrection. People bring out the red egg they made for the church and crack it against each other’s egg.

On Sunday, it seemed similar to the Orthodox Christmas where some people go to church and some don’t. My host grandmother prepared a big lunch and of course there were plenty of eggs at the meal! There were so many eggs from the weekend; my host family was eating egg salad for days!

The students in my school also participated in a Easter "pazar" in the town center with a few of the other local schools. Students channeled their creativity and made Easter decorations and treats to sell to raise funds for the school. 

It was a memorable Easter to say the least and I am thankful for my Peace Corps experience so I can learn about how others across the world celebrate different holidays like Easter. 

One for the Bucket List

My dream has always been to be in Rome for Easter. Who could not want to be in St. Peter's Square with Pope Francis on Easter Sunday?! One night a few weeks ago, when my insomnia had the best of me, I had an idea. Why don't I go to Rome for Easter?! I was feeling a little down about not being able to go to Catholic mass for Easter and not be with my family, especially since Easter is April 12th here.

Living in Macedonia means that almost any European country is just a plane (or bus or train) ride away. I knew it was last minute and the flight would be expensive but I decided to take a leap of faith and booked the ticket after getting approval from the Peace Corps. I planned on going alone but knew I had a friend from college who was backpacking around Europe. I didn't think it would work out but I sent him a message in the hopes he could meet me in Rome.

A week later he sent me a message saying he found a place to stay (which was nearly impossible with how booked Rome was for Easter) and that he was buying his plane ticket. I couldn't believe I would have a Bearcat reunion in Rome!!!!

Bearcat reunion at St. Peter's Square

I packed my bags and was off to Rome for the weekend. Friday was beautiful weather, the sun was shining and I couldn't believe I was in this ancient city. Around every corner was something beautiful. Since this trip was so sporadic, I didn't really research what many of the landmarks were and the history behind things. It would have been helpful but sometimes, things happen so quickly and you just have to go with it. I walked around Rome with a cannoli in hand (the most delicious cannoli I have ever had, the ricotta was to die for), the beautiful Italian language being spoken around me and in the oldest place I have ever been.

Trevi Fountain 

Palatine Hill 

Sadly the Trevi was under construction in a 3 year renovation project but I was still happy I got to see it. I tried some traditional Italian butter cookies and then ate some spaghetti on the Spanish steps. Since it was Good Friday, there were Stations of the Cross with the Pope. I arrived 2 hours before the stations to be sure I was close to the Pope. Since Tanner's flight didn't arrive until 7, we decided to meet up early the next morning. I thought that it would be walking stations of the cross but the Pope stayed in the same place the whole time. It was so incredibly beautiful to say the Stations of the Cross, while standing right next to the Colosseum.

Captured these pictures while waiting for Stations of the Cross 

I probably walked around 15 miles on the cobblestone streets and could barely walk after the Stations.

The next morning I woke up early and met up with Tanner. I couldn't believe I was actually seeing him in person!!! We headed straight for St. Peter's Basilica and waited in the line. Thankfully we got there early because when we got out, the line snaked all around the whole square!



Once inside, it's hard to even describe what I saw. I have seen pictures and heard it described by others but only seeing it in person, one can truly appreciate it. My first impressions were every definition and application of splendid – gold and white, marble everywhere, and everything in amazing condition, especially considering its age and the number of visitors it receives. The building itself is a masterwork, both inside and out, and is similarly adorned with priceless works of art in celebration of the faith. I  was able to go to confession to a priest that spoke 4 languages! Not many people can say they have gone to confession in St. Peter's Basilica. 

I've  always wanted to visit the Vatican City. Perhaps because it’s an entirely separate country within a country, the smallest internationally recognised independent state by area and by population, and the centre and focus of the Catholic faith, synonymous with the Pope and with the white smoke of conclave.

The power of St. Peter’s Basilica has influenced world history for the past 700 years and is plainly visible in the lavishly decorated interior, which includes gold, marble, and statuary, including Michelangelo’s Pieta. 

When I stood there in St. Peter's Square, I felt safe, surrounded by the giant Tuscan colonnades that block the peripheral vision of distractions, focussing the eye and attention on the staircase to St Peter’s Basilica. Such was Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s intent – the 4-column-deep colonnades certainly give the feeling of being embraced by “the maternal arms of Mother Church” as he described them.

We then explored the city and visited as much as we could: Pantheon, Spanish Steps, beautiful Italian squares and so much more. We ate typical pizza and had some gelato (I had nutella and vanilla with kinder swirls)! It was so refreshing to be away from Macedonian food and be a country that has the best food! I wanted to try everything. We even had roasted artichokes and limoncello! I ate more mozzarella this weekend then ever before! 

Italian butter cookie 

                                 

delicious spaghetti and free wine 

gelato! 

The next morning was another early morning. We headed to St. Peter's Basilica extremely early because I read online that they close the square once a certain number of people are there. Since I planned this trip so late, I missed the opportunity to try and get tickets for the mass. This was sad but I was content with just being in the square, surrounded by other Catholics on this holy day. On the way to the square, some lady came up to me and gave me an extra ticket!!!!!!

Yes I was really this close to the Pope for mass!

I had no idea what this ticket was for and she spoke another language so I asked an American family when we got to the square. They told me it was a ticket to go inside! I later found out from an Italian guard that it was a ticket to sit in the seats outside and not to go inside but I didn't care! I found a seat incredibly close to the Pope. I was sad that Tanner and I had to be separated but this was the main reason I was going to Rome and I couldn't miss this opportunity. 

I have never been more soaked in my life then waiting for the Pope. I should have listened to my mom and brought both my rain coat and umbrella but sometimes I am stubborn and I paid the price for it. I hid in the bathroom by the radiators while I waited for the mass to begin until the custodians kicked me out! 

The mass was so beautiful. The first half of the mass was inside and then the Pope came out after the offering. As soon as he came out, the rain stopped and everyone put down their umbrellas. I felt like this was a true sign! I could then finally see how close I really was to the altar. He even had his own umbrellas! I couldn't believe I was seeing the Pope yet another time for mass (I saw him in Brazil for World Youth Day) but this time I could actually see him bless the Body and Blood of Christ. The sign of peace was done in so many languages and then it was time for Communion. Unfortunately there were so many people and I wasn't able to receive Communion but I received it spiritually. 

The Pope then came around in his Pope Mobile and it brought back memories from World Youth Day in Brazil. It was really emotional. He then went to the balcony and gave a blessing. It was still hard to believe that this was yet another time I was with Pope Francis. 

My spiritual pilgrimage to Rome was a success and I was at peace and completely satisfied. God truly blessed me on this journey in every way possible. 

My time in Rome wasn't complete though. The first Sunday of the month, throughout Europe, most museums are free. Tanner and I were able to explore the Roman Forum, the Colosseum and Palatine Hill. I didn't think I would get to see any of these ancient and beautiful pieces of history because of my tight budget and how crowded Rome was for Easter, so this was also a gift. Surprisingly they were basically empty, I think the rain scared people away. I read countless blogs of people waiting in line for hours and we waited only 20 minutes to get into the Colosseum and no more then 5 in both other places!

I gasped in awe when I walked into the Colosseum for the first time. It's not just epic- it's one of those structures the word epic was invented to describe. Pushing 2000 years old and standing strong: a breath-taking monument to Roman might. 

It's kind of creepy to think of the tens of thousands of people who packed into this ancient structure, watching people and animals get ripped into shreds. 

For me, the craziest realization about the ancient past is that those people were pretty much like us today in many ways. It's so easy to forget this but when exploring something so old and ancient it gives me that tiny glimmer of insight. They sat in stands, ate their peanuts, and watched their spectacles and tried to escape from their everyday lives for just a few hours.

No matter what I write in this blog about the Colosseum, I can't quite capture the beauty and wonder. You have to go there and see it for yourself. It's the feeling you only get from visiting: gazing up at the sheer size, sitting in the stands, looking in the dungeons. It's what makes history real.

Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum were beautiful although I didn't really know exactly what I was seeing. It would have been a good investment to get an audio guide but that just means I have to make another visit to Rome!

View from the Roman Forum 

One of my favorite parts of the trip is that It seemed like on every street there was at least one church. What looked like an ordinary church was incredible on the inside with the marbles, vivid colored paintings and towering statues. I feel so incredibly blessed for this opportunity and each and everything moment of this pilgrimage was a gift. I can cross another thing off my bucket list. I hope one day to return to Rome, when I can appreciate more of the history (maybe with a tour guide!). My dream would be to bring my parents here, until that day, I will cherish the Roman moments. Although I tried to capture my trip in this blog post, it can never fully express the emotions and feelings this Italian city offered. Here is a glimpse into my trip and a "few" photos (I took over 300!) so you can begin to see Rome through my eyes.

My Students

April 1st is a special day in Macedonia. School was canceled and my students gathered in the town center. This day reminded me of Halloween with students wearing costumes and masks. They call this a "Masquerade" in the town center. Some classes organized costumes while other students dressed up as superheroes or princesses. My favorite costumes were the grapes. Being as this is the wine capital of Macedonia, it was fitting that they would be grapes! There was even a parade down the main street! The students take this day very seriously when it comes to pranks and jokes. They look forward all week to wearing their special masks and tricking people into thinking they are someone else.

The 3rd grade grapes 

The Kindergarten class

Recently was the Spelling Bee in Kavadarci. The Spelling Bee was started by the Peace Corps and continues to be the biggest secondary project in Macedonia. The Spelling Bee has been held at Kreaktiv for many years and we continued the tradition this year. However, this was a very special year because we had more students then ever before participate! Most of the students that attended were from my school.  My site mate and I went to the a few schools in the town for promotion and for 3 weeks before the Spelling Bee, I had practice everyday with each grade level. 

David and Michael, my students, were the only 2 from fifth grade that made it to Regionals!

My students were incredibly excited for the big day. Sadly only 8 total students out of 67 will move onto the Regional Bee in Veles on April 18. 6 out of the 8 students that qualified are from my school so that made me very happy. The Spelling Bee is for students in grades 5-12 and there are separate word lists for each grades. The students write the words instead of saying them out loud since this would be very confusing for them. The Macedonian letters have different names and even simply spelling their names in the Latin alphabet can be confusing! The National Spelling Bee will be in Skopje at the American school called Nova on May 9 (the day before the marathon!). I am continuing to practice the words with my students and excited to see if they will move onto Nationals! 

Anxiously listening to the instructions

Signing students in 

I have been busy co-teaching classes at my local school with my counterpart. Last week, my students practiced speaking about their typical school day. The best part of my school day is being hugged by the smiling students as soon as I arrive at school. This week I gave a presentation on Easter in America and my students were appalled after hearing about carrot cake. I tried to convince them of how delicious it is but they weren't having any part of the idea. They absolutely loved the idea of Easter egg hunts though and wanted to have one here. My dream would be to have a school wide Easter egg hunt but I know that's a pipe line dream. They also loved seeing pictures of chocolate bunnies and peeps!

A student writes today's lesson in her notebook.

I ask students in the class about their typical day at school. "What time do you arrive at school?" "Do you eat lunch at school?"

 A student scans the text so that he can answer my question about the lesson.

A student follows along in her book as I read aloud a text about a typical school day for a boy living in Australia 

If I had to sum up my Peace Corps experience over these past 6 months, it would be moments like these that remind me of my purpose here and bring a joy that I have never felt anywhere else

Although Peace Corps has very tough moments, that make you question if you are making a difference or what your purpose is, I just have to look at the joy in my students' eyes and in their smiles as they greet me each day in school. Sometimes we don't realize the impact we have on people from the "normal" things we do each day. At times it can feel like I am gaining more then I am giving but I have to remember that the small things can make a difference in the eyes of someone else. I may never fully understand the impact I have on my students but I am slowly beginning to realize the impact that they are having on my life.